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Do I need an Insurance survey |
Preparing your vessel |
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Simple
economics suggest that the more risks you can remove, the less chance of
a claim. As insurance companies are profit making organisations it is in
their interests to ensure a vessel is maintained to certain standards
and operated as safely as possible. "
But for the shackle the anchor was lost Insurance
companies are looking after your interests as well as their own.
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Generally the requirements of the insurance survey are to ensure the vessel is not likely to :
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Paint and Powder...when does it matter |
What checks can I carry out myself? |
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Poor
varnish work, scratched hulls, limited osmosis etc. are not factors that
most insurance companies feel take precedence. Cosmetic condition has to
be considered only when it seriously affects the insured valuation.
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Although the following list is not fully comprehensive, every item in this list would normally be checked during an insurance survey. The majority of competent owners should have no difficulty checking their own vessel for these points.
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Gas System maintenance |
Fire Fighting equipment | |||
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If
a gas system is fitted, ensure cylinder storage is such that any
escaping gas from the cylinder or regulator can easily find its way over
board without risk of entering the accommodation or bilges. This usually
means fitting the gas cylinder or cylinders in some type of container
which can be secured which has a drain fitted at a low point to direct
gas over board. Ensure that any flexible lines are less than five years
old and of the correct specification Calor
Gas supply a booklet on gas installations on boats, get one free on 0345
661111.
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A
fire blanket and In-date fire extinguishers should fitted in the galley
area. The larger the vessel the more extinguishers required, as a
guide a 24 ft vessel will require a minimum of two. On modern
extinguishers the date of "replacement due by", is stamped on
the outside of the extinguisher, older designs will have a date of
manufacture which may suggest the extinguisher is no longer reliable.
Those fitted with pressure gauges are self-explanatory. All
extinguishers should be mounted in permanent positions.
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Seacocks and Skin Fittings |
When should a seacock be fitted? |
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Check
all seacocks for operation ,
make sure all handles are permanently attached and in good
condition. Confirm attached pipework is secure, in good condition and
where possible double clipped.
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Skin
fittings below the waterline and most
within about 30cm.above the waterline should have seacocks fitted. No
plastic or nylon fittings should be fitted below the waterline. (these
can fracture )
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Pipework: fastening and routing |
Bilge pump/s |
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All
pipework should be double clipped where possible,the clips should
be in good condition. Occasionally pipes are required to be looped
above the waterline, these include the WC outlet pipe and
in some cases, the
engine cooling water inlet pipe. This is to prevent back siphoning
flooding the vessel or engine in exceptional circumstances.
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Ensure
the vessel is fitted with at least one manual bilge pump even if an
electric pump is fitted. Larger vessels will require at least two pumps.
In the case of electric pumps ensure that the outlet pipe is looped
above waterline or a one-way valve is fitted. These can occasionally
flood the bilges when the vessel is severely heeled.
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Fuel systems : petrol and diesel |
Electrics |
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Check
all engine fuel pipes for security and condition and material
suitability, in particular ensure that pipes cannot touch moving
parts. Fuel systems petrol The
filler pipe must be in a position where spillage cannot run into
the bilges or accommodation. The tank vent pipe must vent overboard.
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All
batteries must be secured, along with all loose wiring particularly
around the engine. Heavy
stuff This
includes fuel and water tanks, marine WC s, cookers etc. all permanently
fitted items have to be well secured. |
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Propeller condition |
Underwater metalwork |
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Check
propeller s for signs of damage and if the propeller nut has not been
removed for several years consider removing it for checking as the
hidden threads on this can often deteriorate and allow the propeller to
run off if put hard astern.
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Scrape small areas of paint off all underwater bronze metal fittings including the propeller, to check for signs of dezincification. These areas show as irregular areas of coppery colour blotches and when scraped, severely affected areas are quite soft and powdery.
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Rigging (fittings) and masts |
Decks : fastenings, fittings, equipment |
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Check
bottle screws for obvious cracks, distortions, missing split pins or
faulty clevis pins. Check any rigging straps ,U bolts, and stemhead
fittings for signs of distortion or failure. Rigging
wire Stainless steel rigging is not easy to visually assess and generally insurance companies require replacement after ten years. Occasionally electrical conductivity testing may be suggested. This test can identify hidden corrosion in terminals which causes increased electrical resistance. Galvanised rigging on the other hand may last several decades before replacement is required, visual inspection is usually all that is required, as corrosion is visually obvious. Masts Check all mast fittings for security. Carefully look at any rigging attachment points as quite often small cracks may be found in alloy masts at these points. Also look for any signs of corrosion close to stainless steel fittings on the alloy spars. Significant wall damaged can weaken the mast, small scuffs and abrasions are not important structurally. |
Deck fittings On
deck check all stanchions for security, all guardlines for condition and
security and check all deck fittings particularly mooring cleats for
damage and security. Deck structure At
areas of high stress, i.e the rigging U bolts, mast base, mooring cleat
positions etc. check the moulding for signs of cracks or distortion. A
professional opinion should be sought if there is any doubt Side deck distortion Lay
a straight edge over the line of the rigging points on the side deck,
often you'll find humps at each attachment point. Now check below to see
what has allowed this to happen . Minor distortion is probably
acceptable, severe distortion should be investigated.
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Rudders and steering gear |
What's left to check ? |
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On
fibreglass rudders look for signs of corrosion leaking from rudder
post at the entry point. Look for signs of cracks at the top
forward leading edge of the rudder where two parts of the moulding are
joined. This may indicate failure of the bond which could allow
sea water to enter the rudder moulding and cause internal corrosion
problems. Wheel steering Check
steering gear or signs of wear, particularly steering cables where they
run around turning blocks or sheaves this is where steel cables
will start to fray. Tiller steering Often
,wooden tillers will decay close to the stock fitting , check
this area.
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This obviously varies from vessel to vessel and might include keelbolts on one vessel but not on another, concern about possible hull cracks on one or dismissed as gel coat scratches on another. Experience can help determine serious problems. A vigilant owner should be able to identify most of the common failures from the aforementioned without any difficulty. When
is a degree of deterioration considered to be excessive ? If
you find something you're not sure of seek the advice of a shipwright
or a surveyor. There is a degree of structure inspection in any survey or report. I have not included this in the above list as it is indeed these areas where opinions often differ and GREY enters the eqaution ! John
Lilley
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